Spring/Summer 2020

Spring/Summer 2020

A dreamer, a realist.

Two perspectives that could be perceived as complementary or contradictory. With this Paco Rabanne collection, Julien Dossena imagines them coexisting: the dreamer and the realist. Drawing strength from symbols of naïveté rather than nihilism, he arrives at a vivid expression that is open and endearing – one that acknowledges today’s world without yielding to its darker truths.

References from the ‘60s and ‘70s have relevance and resonance – alternately romantic, cosmic, utopic, but most of all, non-nostalgic. Hearts and daisies are patterned on signature metal mesh, emphasizing the unironic and enduring allure of Pop art. Leather jackets with landscape incrustations and knits that feature rainbow stripes or sunsets read as affirmations. Silver, a Paco Rabanne standby, is treated with dandy flourish as a tailored suit, embroidered coated jeans, or in leather. Jersey looks for day present surprising collages of optimism and glamour. Meanwhile, a top and shorts in floral guipure lace with sleeves that cascade to ground frame the body as a more poetic silhouette.

Color-blocked landscapes reappear on boots, intricately inlaid like marquetry, while dimensional metal butterflies, dragonflies and other decorative shapes on belts and jewellery underscore the fantastical aspect of this collection. New assemblage metal bags assume the characteristics of kinetic art.

Peter Saville’s ongoing collaboration with Paco Rabanne comprises three new T-shirts: Unresolved emerges from a black background studded with multicolor strass. Realist floats amidst a dreamy, gradient blue atmosphere. Male Tales is placed within a pixelated sculpted torso. Here, the messages tease both eye and mind.

Finally, this season marks the introduction of men’s looks that are consistent with Julien Dossena’s fluid, forward vision. Bridging the inevitable exchange of masculine and feminine archetypes, they express individuality and edge through continued pattern mixing and surface detail. Combined with the women’s collection, they advance the dynamic direction of Paco Rabanne as it enters the next decade.